Taking your cat to the vets July 1, 2008
Posted by sacchicats in Uncategorized.Tags: cats, healthy cat, vets
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However a new cat comes into your life, whether by adoption of a stray that wanders into your life or via a shelter, or after purchasing a beloved pedigree, the final step in the adoption process is a stop at the veterinarian’s office. First off you need to get acquainted with your local vet. If you are not happy with the reception you and kitty receive from the first doctor, try another and another until you are satisfied. For your cat’s health and peace of mind, it’s important to develop a friendly and good relationship with a vet whose excellent medical training equals a sincere concern for the patient (and the owner too!). Watch how the doctor interacts with your cat. Then ask what you should do in case of emergency. If you hear anything less than “call me anytime day or night, whenever you think you need to”, you still haven’t found the right vet for your kitty! Finally look for a vet who is up to date with the latest developments in cat care and treatment. Most diagnostic tools and surgical techniques available for human medicine are also available for cats, but all vets may not be aware of them.
Once your kitty comes to stay with you, you will need an initial checkup and inoculations. A routine blood test will determine liver and kidney function and negativity (hopefully!) for Feline Leukemia and Feline Aids (Feline Immunodeficiency Virus). After a routine physical examination and a declaration of good health, all cats need to receive vaccinations. Killed vaccines are preferred because of the potential risk for vaccine-induced infections with live virus vaccines, especially if given to immuno-compromised cats with Feline Aids or Leukemia, or those on corticosteroids or pregnant. These are cats with special needs that need to be addressed carefully.
Cats need to receive vaccinations for panleukopenia, rhinotracheitis, and calicivirus. These vaccinations are first given to kittens around ages 8-12 weeks with a second booster around ages 12-16 weeks. Many cats living together (eg, breeding facilities, adoption shelters) are at higher risk and may require earlier vaccinations. To maintain effective immunity levels, give a booster ever 3 years. Vaccination against Rabies is required after the first 2 innoculation, with boosters every 1 or 3 years depending on the type of Rabies vaccine given (ask you vet which type is used at the clinic). Remember, too frequent use of vaccines may reduce the immune response and is not desired.
Cats testing “positive” for Feline Aids or Leukemia (or any contagious disease for that matter) must be isolated from all other “negative” cats. These diseases are highly contagious and they are virtual death-sentences. Still, cats that test “positive” can happily live out their lives as “only-kitties” or with other “positive” cats with the help of your loving care and support combined with that of you vet.
Injection of vaccines has been known to cause cancer (sarcomas) in cats at the sites of repeated injections. So vaccination site recommendations have been clearly established in accordance with the American Association of Feline Practitioners and other organizations around the world. Different vaccines are administered to different sites, with the vet noting which injection goes where. Talk to your vet about this and INSIST that the vaccines containing antigens panleukemia, feline herpes (rhinotracheitis), and calicivirus (also Chlamydia if used, although I personally do not recommend it except in special circumstances) should be administered in the RIGHT FORELIMB region or else intranasally. Vaccines containing the antigen Leukemia virus should be given in the LEFT REARLIMB region (remember LEUKEMIA –LEFT). Actually I do not recommend the use of Leukemia vaccines (except under special circumstances) and instead I recommend testing if your kitty comes in contact with unknown carriers (another reason for keeping kitty safely indoors!) since the vaccine is only about 60% effective. Rabies containing vaccines should go into the RIGHT REARLIMB region (remember RABIES-RIGHT). In this way we can learn which vaccines/companies are causing problems. The vet should keep a detailed record of the type of vaccine given (whether killed, live or modified live), dose, company that made the vaccine, date of administration, etc., with the cat’s name and health records. If these guidelines are followed, and your precious kitty becomes the unfortunate victim of cancer, it will be easier to remove a limb than to lose a life!
The use of multiple does vaccines (many mixed together) are not advised since inadequate mixing results in unequal distribution of antigens and adjuvant and other problems. So do question your vet on exactly what types of vaccines are being used in the clinic. Where medications, vaccines, and dosages are concerned, silence is NOT golden!
Your Ideal Cat July 1, 2008
Posted by sacchicats in Uncategorized.Tags: balinese, cats, javanese, perfect cat
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Cats come into our lives in many ways: purebred adoptions that are eagerly anticipated (and almost as expensive!) as the birth of a child, casual “Mom, look who followed me home” arrangements, love-at-first-sight matches at animal shelters, and emergencies that compel anyone with a heart to rescue a feline in trouble. With enough love and patience, any of these can be the first step toward a wonderful, lasting puss/person relationship. But as with any important commitment, there are things that can go wrong. So take the time to decide what kind of cat is best for you, then stick to your decision to avoid the pitfalls.
Your ideal cat may be a purebred kitten, an older cat adopted from a shelter, a retired breeder, a homeless waif or a pampered feline you fall for at a cat show. How can you be sure which sort of cat would make the best companion for you? First of all, evaluate your living space and lifestyle. Cats can adapt to any environment from a studio apartment to a farm, but generally speaking the gentler, less active breeds do best in small spaces while the livelier, more athletic types need more room to romp and space to explore. It’s possible to keep a ‘hyper’ cat happy in a small apartment, but you will need to provide plenty of interesting “cat furniture” and make the most of vertical as well as horizontal space. If you prefer a cat that would just curl up for a nap on your couch, then choose one of the more mellow breeds or an older cat rather than a kitten. Consider the people and pets you live with too. A cat that would do fine with an older couple might be intimidated by an active family with 4 kids and 2 dogs!
A purebred kitten may cost from a hundred USD to a few thousand depending on the rarity of the breed and local supply and demand. It’s a worthwhile investment if you’re smitten by the looks and purr-sonality of a certain breed. A major advantage of purebreds is that they tend to conform in looks and temperament to the others in their bloodlines. While individuals can have strikingly different purr-sonalities, basic breed characteristics are fairly predictable.
The “rule of paw” about cat breeds is that slender shorthairs like Abyssinians, Siamese and their relatives (Balinese, Javanese, Oriental long and short-hairs), Cornish Rex, are generally smarter, more curious and more active, while plump longhairs like Persians, Himalayans and Ragdolls tend to be less intellectual, more relaxed and more agreeable about grooming sessions which they require daily. Most purebreds are affectionate, but some bond with one individual (Siamese) while others prefer to hang out with the whole family (Balinese & relatives). They also differ in their degree of tolerance for other cats, dogs, children, company, noises and large groups of people. Unlike cats of unknown parentage which can change radically from kittenhood to adulthood, purebreds provide few surprises as they develop. Look at a 6-month old pedigree kitten and you know how the adult cat will look and act.
But genes don’t count for everything. A bad experience in early life could turn a kitten from a sociable breed into a fraidy-cat, or one from a normally relaxed breed into a nervous Nellie. One from a passive breed could turn into a “party animal” if its “people” went out of their way to give it affection, stimulation and opportunities to play. Learn about different cat breeds by reading, asking someone who has that breed, or go to a cat show where you can see them displayed, and talk to their breeders rather than buying blindly from a pet store. For more information on cat breeds, contact Linda Galloway (sacchicats@aol.com).
